Corks suck. Oh sure, they look neat and all, but they are a terrible choice for sealing a bottle of wine. Sure, if you save up a bunch of them you can make all sorts of nifty arts and crafts projects – even a boat, if you are so inclined. But if I crack another cork-sealed bottle and get a whiff of mouldy cardboard, I’m going to just…well, probably just dump it down the drain, and open another. Still.
For the uninitiated, I’m referring to the infamous “cork taint” to which so many wines succumb. These “corked” wines smell like damp basement and taste like wet dog. In my humble opinion they are wholly undrinkable, even when the musty smells and tastes are just past sensory threshold levels – I just can’t get past the reek to discover whatever goodness may be hidden underneath. That said, cork taint isn’t physically harmful, so those who care little for olfactory pleasure, and/or who just desperately need a buzz, are completely safe to chug away.
Cork taint is caused by the chemical compound 2,4,6-trichloroanisole (TCA). TCA forms through the interaction of chlorine, organic phenols (found in all organic matter) and mould. It is extremely potent and only very low levels are required to completely destroy the taste and aroma of that bottle of wine you’ve been saving for months in eager anticipation of the day when you finally open it up in hopes of impressing that special someone you finally got the courage to ask out on a date.
Roughly 8% to 12% of all wines bottled with natural corks are contaminated. Better practices in cork technology – selecting healthy pieces of raw cork, cleaning the corks before they are used – can reduce this number, but cork taint still spoils an unacceptably high proportion of wine.
Really, corked wine is unavoidable where natural corks are concerned, as the shittiness of corks as wine stoppers lies in the simple, unchangeable fact of their material being. Corks are chunks of tree bark, punched out of large slabs harvested from cork trees (Quercus suber), a species of deciduous evergreen oak native to southwest Europe and northwest Africa. As organic matter, cork is ripe with organic phenols – and with chlorine a common component of various cleaners and fungi spores everywhere in the very air we breathe, it’s really not difficult for TCA to form in any situation.
Let’s stop and consider this. For all that wine fits into the modern-day image of sophistication and high culture, most wine bottles are sealed with a hunk of bark, even (and especially) the really expensive stuff – and even when there’s a decent chance that this piece of bark contains chemicals that will ruin everything. How…quaint. (more…)
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